Going over the Victoria Falls Bridge, Zimbabwe, to Zambia is a surreal experience. It’s much like the famous Glienicker Brücke (Bridge of Spies), which literally physically steps into the newness of rules. In a second, your passport’s been stamped, and you’re face to face with Zambia.
My destination on this journey was Chundukwa Lodge ( which is reviewed below). On the way down, I had the privilege of visiting amazing sights, listening to great stories, and having wonderful adventures that all together shed a warm glow on charming Livingstone and its environment.
The Livingstone Express: A Nostalgic Train Ride
We drove past the Livingstone Express, a gorgeous steam train that travels from Livingstone to the Victoria Falls Bridge. Passengers enjoy what is probably the most elegant experience a view of the falls at stationery while indulging in a five-course meal in a vintage dining carriage. The train runs on Wednesday and Saturday and costs £210 a ticket.
I asked my taxi driver if it was worth the price, curious. His response, delivered with a self-deprecating smile, “Can’t afford it.” I paused, listening with his candor luxury tourism can be the opposite of local people’s everyday life.
Livingstone Town: Between Past and Present
It’s both bustling and quiet in Livingstone Town, home to about 170,000 of the country’s 20 million. I noted as we drove through a hotel called Fawlty Towers amusingly. I told my driver about the British sitcom I had on, and he laughed, revealing that he’d never heard of it, but my explanation “made sense.”
We were within Elephant Corridor, a blighted made ashy by the landscape, the veins of its trees parched inside a burnt expanse. There was plastic waste littering the roadside and hollowed-out houses for signs of the poverty’s overwhelming strength.
The Weaver Bird’s Tale: On the Way to Elephant Café
If you follow the road next to Elephant Café, you will pass along the edges of trees covered in Weaver Nests, made by male weaver birds, hoping that a possible mate will find their way through the tree web. The female checks to see if she’s impressed and if not, she destroys the nest, leaving him to start over. All of that is fascinating; it’s nature’s relentless pursuit of perfection.
But, the scars of hungry elephant herds reside on these trees. The café is a sanctuary for elephants saved from a drought some years ago.
When we arrived, we were greeted by India and a man named Africa. His smile was infectious. When I asked if “Africa” was a common name on the continent, he grinned even wider: “No, I am the only Africa in Africa.”
Elephant Café: Close Encounters
Surrounded by six rescued elephants — three males and three females—the café is nestled atop a wood deck overlooking the Zambezi River. Matilde is massive, awe-inspiring, and intimidating, with huge white tusks capable of toppling a man with little effort.
It’s humbling to feed these magnificent creatures. Their size and strength are juxtaposed with their gentle, deliberate movements as they feed on your hand.
A chilling tale of how a crocodile snatches one of the owner’s dogs in an instant was told by Africa of the untamed wilderness surrounding this sanctuary.
Is Elephant Café Worth It?
Without hesitation, yes. For $80, you will experience an intimate connection to these amazing animals and have a peaceful meal on the river. Livingstone offers this unparalleled activity, combining conservation efforts, storytelling, and the opportunity to interact with rescued elephants.
Coolness and cool scents, opulence and opulent train rides, poverty and sobering poverty. It’s a destination where adventure and a visual feast can also include reflection, and every single turn offers a new way to look at the world and humanity.
Jackson Reed is an avid traveler and adventure seeker, sharing tips and stories from around the globe to inspire your next journey.
