Which Direction To Shave: Should You Shave With or Against the Grain?

Is it any different from running a blade against your face? Shaving is an art form that requires ritual, Preparation, Precision, and Patience. But if you get it right, you will have a smooth, irritation-free shave. Doing it wrong will leave you with razor burns, bumps, and ingrown hairs.

Which side of the grain do we shave on? Is it with the grain, against the grain, and how does each method affect the look, feel, and texture of your face? If you have ever wondered which method is better for your skin, you are in the right place. To get you the clean, comfortable shave you have been looking for, let’s break it down into five essential things you need to know about the proper direction to shave.

What is Shaving with the Grain?

Before we correct this, we need to settle on what it means to ‘shave with the grain.’

Facial hair does not grow haphazardly; it tends to travel in a specific direction. Shaving with the grain is shaving with your hair growth. Rub your hand over your beard to figure out your grain. If it feels smooth, you are going with the grain. That is against the grain if it feels rough.

You need to understand what grain you are on to learn how to shave properly. Remember that the hairs on your face can grow in all directions. For example, the hair on your cheeks might grow downward, while the hair on your neck grows in swirls or sideways.

Let your stubble grow out for a few days to map your grain. In the mirror, look to see the direction your hair is growing. Getting this right is worth the time, as the makeup will follow your hairline.

Shaving With the Grain: The Safe Bet

But use the grain if you are not new to shaving and have sensitive skin.

Here is why:

• Gentler on Skin: Shaving against the grain reduces your risk of irritation because you are not fighting against the natural direction of your hair.
• Prevents Razor Burn: When razor burn is less probable by minimizing friction around the grain with a razor.
• Reduces Ingrown Hairs: Shaving with the grain helps prevent hairs that are bound to turn back into skin from turning back into skin.

Shaving with the grain does not give you that smooth finish you get from a proper close shave. It is a suitable method if you are not opposed to a clean, polished face but prefer a more glass-smooth face.

Shaving Against the Grain: Pros and Cons

Shaving against or against the grain means shaving the opposite of your hair growth. It is a close-shave method that lifts the hair slightly to give you a closer shave.

The Pros:

Closer Shave: Shave with the grain to get the smoothest result.

The Cons:

• Increased Irritation: The more you push the blade against the grain, the more friction can create razor burn and redness.
• Higher Risk of Ingrown Hairs: The closer you cut one’s hair at an angle from the scalp, the more likely it is to curl back into the scalp.
• More Prone to Cuts: Go against the grain less forgiving if you use a dull blade or too much pressure.

For those with tough, resilient skin, shaving the grain may work. It is something to consider, but if you have ever experienced razor burns or ingrown hairs.

The Combination Approach: Best of Both Worlds

I am unsure if it should be with or against the grain. Try a combination approach.

• First Pass: Shave with the grain first. It is very gentle on your skin and removes most of the hair.
• Second Pass: After shaving cream, reapply and go over everything again with the grain.

This method’s advantage is that it helps prevent irritation while smoothing the finish. Just remember: a fresh, sharp razor and blade do the work.

Prepping Your Skin: The Key to a Great Shave

Whatever direction you go, you need to prep your skin properly. Here is a quick pre-shave routine to set you up for success:

• Cleanse with Warm Water: Your hair will be soft, and when you wash your face with warm water, it will be loose and soft.
• Use Pre-Shave Oil: Pre-shave oil can create a protective barrier, reducing friction.
• Apply Quality Shaving Cream: Choose a hydrating shaving cream or gel to aid that gliding.
• Use a Sharp Razor: A dull blade is bad karma. To ensure a clean, irritation-free shave, replace your blade regularly.

After you have been shaved, cold-rinse your face with water to close up your pores, and use a soothing aftershave balm with hydrosol to seal the skin, retain moisture, and calm it.

Final Thoughts: Which Direction Should You Shave?

The answer depends on your skin type, your hair growth pattern, and your shaving goals:

• With the Grain: Great for sensitive skin prone to irritation or ingrown hairs.
• Against the Grain: This is perfect for a closer shave but probably better for those with skin that can withstand the treatment.
• Combination Approach: A balance of the best of both worlds.

The trick to a great shave should not just be ‘in the direction.’ I would say it is about preparation and knowing what tools to use. Whether you are going with the grain, cutting against the grain, or combining both, a little attention can go a long way toward achieving a smooth and comfortable shave.