In the autumn of 2011, Mary Katrantzou entranced the fashion sector with a collection that converted Fabergé eggs, Ming vases, and other exceptional objects into wearable artistic creations. At that time, she was still in her 20s, and she overstepped the boundaries of print design, thus making herself a visionary in the industry. Now, more than a decade later, she is returning to her archives in a seasoned way, mixing the bright breakaway of her first work with the practical elegance of her current performance.
A Return to the Archives
In spring 2023, after being appointed Bulgari’s creative director of accessories, Katrantzou drew her creative energy from Bulgari’s wealth of inspiration. This philosophy touches her heart as she revisits her own collections and approaches them with a new interpretation by focusing on something more refined and wearable.
“To be able to look back at something and focus on refining it, that has been first and foremost in what Bulgari has been doing reinventing their symbols over and over again,” said Katrantzou while giving an online interview a few days earlier. Speaking of her past artworks, she added, “We as designers are so used to looking back and feeling ‘that’s done’ and moving on to the future; now I have the sensation of start having my own library.”
Evolving Craftsmanship and Wearability
Over the last 15 years, Katrantzou’s artistry has developed a fine edge, thus giving rise to a very personal and practical interaction with the contemporary woman. A remarkable twist in her latest creations is that they can easily be worn.
The dramatic shapes seen in the fall 2011 collection incorporated such designs as stiff lampshade skirts, which made a big impact on the runway but, moreover, were a bit hard to bring to practical life because, although they looked enticing, the fit could be regarded as somewhat hard in practice. Katrantzou has opted for a more relaxed, feminine direction and soft fabrics in her new resort collection. The grandeur of these latest pieces is a continuation of her previous work, yet they are made more adaptable and easier to wear.
Moreover, plenary-size varieties are part of this progression, which shows her dedication to total inclusivity. Other designers would do well to follow her example.
Prints Reimagined
The difference between the refined silhouettes and the patterns marks a change in approach. However, Katrantzou’s iconic prints stay central to her creations. Nevertheless, these, too, have changed.
“I looked through some of the prints I had done and I thought, my God, it was obviously a quick rush to prepare the craftsmanship because it was always about getting it out for a show,” she stated. “There were too many ideas that I wanted to put out and sometimes the degree of refinement I could have achieved at that time was secondary to the idea.”
In her latest collection, the prints are more intricate and precise than ever, and the level of detail truly represents her development as a designer. One of the highlight pieces is a ruby red velvet cocktail dress with a crystal trompe l’oeil “necklace” motif on the bodice, which shows a perfect place alongside artistry and sophistication.
A New Generation of Fans
The emergence of time also lets Katrantzou’s designs reach a different audience. Young women are enthralled by her catchy prints and one-of-a-kind designs and are now viewing her work with innocent eyes. She knows how to adjust her ideas for the young generation, so the collections keep to her roots and stay fresh with the times.
Looking Ahead
The evolving life of Mary Katrantzou, a fashion designer and then a fuller-on fashion creative, showcases her natural talent and adjusts her mind to her circumstances. By bringing back her archives and modernizing them, she fulfils the request right at the interface between something mainly artistic and something indeed practical. Her latest collection celebrates her previous achievements and involves a leap into a future full of progression, diversity, and timeless creativity.
With Katrantzou as the lead, her brand and role in Bulgari suggest a future where the old and the new can coexist. Read on to learn more about MOS MOSH Gallery: Redefining Menswear with the Autumn/Winter 2025 Collection.
Ava Thompson is a fashion stylist and trend forecaster, bringing you the latest in fashion tips, outfit inspirations, and style guides to elevate your wardrobe.
