With its rich history, charm, and unbeatable Mediterranean charm, Valletta is a city to move about and stay. However, not all visits are picture-perfect, and our visit turned into a funny, dramatic, and reflective mix when a summer storm hit.
Boarding Chaos and the Downpour
On one of those rare rainy days in Valletta, the humidity finally let go of the downpour. The city’s normally sun-drenched streets became makeshift dance floors for street vendors twirling in puddles with joy not unlike an illicit rave.
Unexpected weather called for umbrellas in hand and ponchos that barely held back the soaking rain, but we boarded a river shuttle. On the boat, an elderly Russian woman who had boarded the wrong vessel had made it chaotic. When she refused to disembark, she was met with a chorus of frustrated cries: “Get off the boat!” from tourists who were already drenched and pretty much not in a position to be sympathetic. A crowd of bafflement and indignation at her obstinacy gathered around the scene.
Valletta’s Harbour: A Contrast of Time
The boat set off, and Grand Harbour, Valletta, was revealed: a canvas of history that was up with the modern. The scars of World War II bombings remain strongly visible, the scars of the city’s resilience. However, the harbor was thoroughly modernized, with deep docks and wharves busy with shipping along fortified walls testifying its strategic importance through centuries.
Cranes in polka dot form leaned enormous and surreal over the bay, with mechanical giraffes grazing the skyline. In response, children dived fearlessly off the rocky edges, laughing; all the while, the hum engines hummed, and tourists waved back at them as if they were old friends. It was a view full of DNA from history and the living.
The Legends and Regrets
All good cities, Valletta is a city of stories, and none is more outlandish than that of The Pub. Actor Oliver Reed is believed to have drunk himself to death in this unassuming bar, four of which he gulped down, together with half a bottle of whisky and 12 double rums. However, I regretfully missed visiting it, thanks to its infamous reputation.
Valletta won’t be unfamiliar to cinematic buffs—they’ve used it in Gladiator and James Bond films. Of course, these Hollywood ties rumble in with a dose of intrigue to an already intriguing city. Still, that city’s raw and real personality is far greater than its cinematic sheen.
Tour Misses the Mark
The harbor was a great visual subject, with many things to admire, but I thought the tour was unnecessary. It was not a novelty to have already seen its grandeur from our cruise ship. Visiting a vineyard a day after indulgent wine tasting was very much like revisiting the vineyard—very interesting in theory but a draining practice.
Unfortunately, our tour guide added to the dissonance. Her commentary was dominated by how tourism was destroying Maltese culture. While her concerns were well taken, her choice of timing and audience was ill-chosen. After all, you don’t seek such grievances when on a packed boat of tourists.
Reflections on Valletta
Valletta’s Grand Harbour is a masterpiece of resilience and reinvention, with history and everyday life playing in fascinating harmony. Although the tour itself was Formula 1 boring, it provided plenty of humor, reflection, and life behind the scenes of an integrated city of contrasts.
Would I return? Absolutely. The next time, I would skip the river shuttle, visit The Pub, walk the historic streets, and let Valletta’s stories unfold at their own pace, rain or shine.
Jackson Reed is an avid traveler and adventure seeker, sharing tips and stories from around the globe to inspire your next journey.
