The city of Palermo, Sicily, provides a place of contrasts, beautiful, aging, haunting history, tradition, and then again, complexity. But my brief visit left me with a cocktail of emotions: It was a combination of fascination and frustration and a lingering feeling of unease.
The Carriages and Cruelty
Among the first sights we saw in Palermo were the horse-drawn carriages parked outside the city’s landmarks. The behaviour of these animals is troubling, while they lend the streets a postcard charm. With a bucket in hand, the drivers surely douse the mules with water, a sensitive bit, to keep them cool in the blazing Sicilian heat. The dignified utter indignity is completed by the tinier cowboy hats placed atop their heads, an infantile attempt at whimsy that only serves to underscore the indignity.
Please do not let yourself indulge in this cruelty if you are reading this. Luckily, there are plenty of other ways to experience the city’s history without adding to the suffering of poor animals.
Palermo Cathedral: From Tourists to Mourners
There are magnificent buildings in the world; the Palermo Cathedral, otherwise known as the Arab-Norman Cathedral, is a building that bears years of cultural fusion. We shuffled in behind a funeral procession, which was a working cathedral. A poignant contrast to the murmuring tourists with their selfie sticks and sunhats, solemnly and starkly pallbearers carried a casket.
Outside the cathedral is a golden statue of a woman on a boat with a rose in her hand. It could have been some Santa Maria. Unfortunately, neither the internet nor my guide gave me any necessary answers.
Cooking in the Sun at Capella Palatina
The Capella Palatina, the Palermo crown jewel of Byzantine mosaics, is worth the hype. However, the organization was poor. Our guide, who abandoned us under the hot Sicilian sun, got tickets from a vendor. By the time we entered, we had already passed the point of appreciating the artistry, and fifteen minutes without shade in Palermo felt like an eternity.
Pro tip: Buy your tickets in advance to avoid the line or to get on a better tour.
Missed Opportunities and Mafia Memories
Because of time constraints, we missed the Royal Opera House, famously in The Godfather Part III. But going back in time, perhaps skipping it was not the end of the world as the Planet was not exactly in its gory primes Part III in particular.
If I can delve back into Palermo’s Mafia history next time, that would be a real winner. The city still bears the scars of the 1992 tragic Capaci and D’Amelio bombings that took the lives of anti-mafia judges Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino. And the Mafia Museum takes you even deeper into this dark chapter.
Palermo vs. Sardinia: A Quick Comparison
Palermo’s lively streets, deep history, and wonderful food make it more of an offering than Sardinia, at least for those wanting cultural immersion. However, with limited time in each city, it is hard to draw definitive conclusions.
Final Words
Palermo is a city that hits you. It is chaotic, scorching, and arcana-rich, begging the question for more than a passing glance. My visit was far from perfect: heat, disorganization, and occasional disappointment marred a fine occasion, but it was curious and left me wanting more.
Next time, I will go horseless, find better accommodation for the Capella Palatina, and maybe get more into Palermo’s palpable but troubling Mafia tales. I have a vivid, if imperfect, memory of this whirlwind Sicilian stop until then.
Jackson Reed is an avid traveler and adventure seeker, sharing tips and stories from around the globe to inspire your next journey.
